Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Bahia Conception

We had an amazing gennaker run into Bahia Conception. We spent about 5 days in the bay, but one could easily spend weeks here. There are six beautiful white sand beaches and as many little islands. Highway 1 parallels the shore of the bay making it easy for RV access. We first anchored in Playa Santispac. The beach is lined with RVs, but these are all luxury RVs, all with sanitation hook-ups, and completely solar powered so there were no noisy generators.

We then motored the 3.4 nm to Playa Coyote. As we were anchoring, an old America sailor rowed over. Without a word of welcome, and despite the fact we were in the middle of anchoring, he said, “If you find an anchor when you raise your’s, it is mine.” It was a bit confusing as his boat was anchored quite a ways away from where we were anchoring. He clarified that his lost anchor was from a different boat that had been in about the same spot we were and he was still hoping the anchor would be found. We assured him that should an anchor be attached to ours when we hoisted it, we would give it to him. As he rowed away he said, “It is movie night at Bertha’s.”

We finished anchoring and had just sat down when we heard, “Welcome Good as Gold.” We looked around and saw a cat watching us from a nearby boat. We thanked the cat for welcoming us. It was turning into a strange bay.

When Falcon VII arrived, we called over that if they, “find an anchor, it belongs to that boat over there and it is movie night at Bertha’s.”

We dropped Tubby into the water and as we went to explore, we drove over to the junk rigged, Bat Wing. This time, in addition to the cat, we found a couple aboard and learned that Bat Wing is from Vancouver Island. They provided a bit of background on the salty old sailor who had rowed over to us and confirmed that Bertha’s was a restaurant and it was indeed movie night at 6 PM.

We explored the shallow waters of Playa Coyote and were amazed at the number of rays. We learned later that it is where many rays are born.

Bertha’s is located in the next bay over, Playa el Burro. We took Tubby over there just before 6 PM. The place was packed with tables being set up outside. We asked to share a table with a woman who turned out to be the partner of the restaurant’s owner. We learned that an American with a laptop, a projector, and a white sheet, shows movies at various local restaurants for a free meal and tips. He claims he has an “in” with Hollywood, but we assumed they are pirated movies. For the past couple of weeks, he was showing all the Oscar nominated movies. That evening, we saw Philomena, with Dame Judy Dench.

The next day, with Jim and Trisha, we dinghied to Playa Coyote and walked to Playa el Burro to hike up the mountain, past the Amerindian petroglyphs and the high iron content “Bell Rocks". The trail is marked with rock cairns and has a series of switchbacks. We quickly lost track of the cairns and proceeded straight up the mountain. It was a difficult hike, but the views were gorgeous. We did manage to stay on the main trail on the descent.






We said, Goodbye, to Falcon VII as they were heading across the Sea of Cortez and south to Mazatlan. We motored over to Isla Coyote for the afternoon then anchored at Playa Santispac for a bit more swimming before leaving Bahia Conception.

Jim had told us where he had caught a large tuna, and sure enough, as we were leaving Bahia Conception, in the same area, we caught a 25-30 lbs. tuna!


Malcolm filleted the tuna, which was a messy job. There was blood everywhere. With bloody fingers Malcolm was sampling the fresh red tuna meat. He couldn’t understand why Dina declined the “sushi”.